That mentality kicks off with the kinds of nibbles that naturally pair up with the bar’s libations: addictive olives, well-appointed cheese and charcuterie plates, a few fresh oysters and creamy, dill-flecked deviled eggs garnished with a luxurious caviar finish. They’re all fine; terrific, even. But then the real fun starts.
The spectacular meatballs could be the centerpiece of a first-rate red sauce joint, that’s how good they are, an almost pillowy blend of chuck roast and pork shoulder, milk and Parmesan, served in a lively, marjoram-packed tomato sauce. Because McCabe-Johnston rarely repeats herself, it’s difficult to grow restless, although the reasonable prices will encourage repeat visits.